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Generally, I try to keep my expectations low, no matter the circumstance. Helps to curve disappointment if something doesn't pan out, so to speak. However, all my life I've dreamed of visiting Italy, manifesting romantic moments, delicious food, and scenery featuring cliffside towns or vast hillside vineyards. Almost so much that there was no way this dream world could possibly exist. Movies and books often glamorize such idyllic places but if given the opportunity to actually see it with your own eyes, there’s always the possibility of a letdown. Lucky for me, not to mention this being my most important bucket list item, the country of Italy exceeded my far too inflated expectations and made me salivate for future visits.
How did we get here?
Upon landing in Naples, we stepped down onto the tarmac and out the door towards baggage claim where our driver (arranged through our Airbnb host) was waiting for us with my name on a sign, which was very surreal and new to me!
As an obsessive planner, I thrive on reading the reviews of hotels or Airbnbs to know what's in store or things to stay away from while also taking the time to scan every detail of the photos provided to make sure I'd be comfortable with the stay. In this case, one of the deciding factors of choosing this particular Airbnb was the fact that the owner outsources with another planner to help with transfers, dining reservations, and many other activities.
After introductions, "Gino" lead us straight out the door to where he'd parked his spacious Sprinter Van and began our drive through Naples. With views of Mount Vesuvius keeping us company, Gino pointed out landmarks and told us stories. Soon, we started to ascend winding mountain roads that resembled many National Parkways we’d experienced over the years in attempt to find epic vistas around North America. A few times I felt my stomach drop as the other motorists played chicken on the tiny roads, but such is common practice apparently and they seemed unbothered. No way was I going to attempt renting a car here my first go round though.
The trip from Naples to the town of Ravello on the Amalfi Coast was around 90 minutes and as we arrived, the first views of the mountain towns hovering over the sea absolutely took my breath away. Stepping out at the dropoff point and staring at the Tyrrhenian Sea far below, I knew I'd made the right decision to stay here. All the years of dreaming and time spent planning couldn't have prepared me for how I felt in that moment. I was literally stunned by the beauty and peaceful energy already in the air.
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Where to Stay?
When deciding on accommodations, all I knew for sure was that I wanted to see the Amalfi Coast and the most recognizable names to me were Positano or the town of Amalfi. There are actually 13 towns that make up the Amalfi Coast so I tried to narrow down points of interest that I thought we might enjoy. The more I read, it sounded like Positano would be super crowded and expensive during our summertime trip and throughout my research, I kept seeing mentions of a small cliffside town called Ravello. Evidently, tourists generally visit for at least a half day and the descriptions of this area seemed more our speed. As kind of a hidden gem full of history that artists, musicians, and writers seeking inspiration have enjoyed, I knew I had to see it.
While Gino insisted on unloading our carry-ons and we waited for our host, Andrea, to come meet us, I simply took in the view and could've stood there for hours. A few moments later, Andrea energetically appeared, grabbed my bag, and guided us through the tunnel leading into town. Cars are not allowed in the center of town and come to find out, rightly so. He explained the layout of the piazza (town square) and even told us about his uncle's cafe that we should patronize, saying during our visit, he would be our uncle too. 🥰 It was immediately apparent that this was a tiny, tight-knit community where everyone looked out for one another and Andrea certainly had connections throughout this enchanting area.
We continued chatting away en route to the flat, trying to keep up with our host down 50 large stone steps, and I was slightly uneasy thinking about having to go back up them each time we went into town. However, as soon as we went inside our rental and saw the view, my heart was happy with the steps a distant memory!
You have to remember, that's just the way everything is here, it's best not to have large luggage cause you're going to have to drag it all around through train stations, cobblestone streets, and very likely lots of steps.
Upon entering the flat, I immediately bypassed the interior to take in the outdoor space. A tall glass door led out to a two level patio space with undoubtedly the most spectacular view I’ve ever encountered. The picture perfect scene was a panoramic vista of the colorful Amalfi coastline fading into a sea so calm, it seemed more like a painting. Just over the stone wall, a well curated garden with lush grasses and climbing vines displayed the pride that locals take in caring for their beautiful coastal homes. The fuchsia colored bougainvillea covering the pergola was a nice touch that made it almost too good to be true and I couldn't wait to use the outdoor shower space facing the sunrise in the mornings.
The interior of the flat had a cute living area with a large tv, sofa, dining table and a king sized bedroom with an elevated balcony that also overlooked the sea. There was a beautiful bathroom and a slender kitchen area with the perfect amount of amenities. Although we never quite figured out the Frog espresso machine but that was fine since we frequented a nice cafe in town that made delicious macchiatos and americanos for us each morning on our stroll. Everything was so clean and it was just the perfect amount of space, did I mention the view???
Here's the listing on Airbnb, Breathtaking Views ⁐ Solarium ⁐ Romantic Location! Definitely the best Airbnb experience I've ever had!
Time to explore Ravello!
After we settled in, I was anxious to roam around and get the lay of the land. The heart of Ravello is Piazza del Duomo, a charming town square anchored around the beautiful cathedral, surrounded by shops, cafes, and the sounds of children playing. We found a table at Andrea's uncle's cafe, Al San Domingo, and enjoyed a snack while taking it all in. This would be my favorite thing to do in Italy, people watching on the piazza while sampling local fare. We explored the captivating alleyways, stopping at a market to buy some grocery staples before heading back for a quick nap as our travels and excitement caught up with us.
Later that evening, we took Gino’s advice by going to Cumpa Cosimo for a very traditional and delicious dinner. Of course I had to try their carbonara and the words "life altering" would probably be the most appropriate description of the meal. With happy bellies, we politely declined the dessert menu but a moment later our waitress brought me a sliver of their homemade tiramisu and thankfully I made room because I'm pretty sure it was the best dessert I've ever tasted. Shocker. 🤤 After a busy first day of travel and getting settled, it was time to rest. I couldn't hide the smile on my face while we strolled toward our flat as the rest of sleepy Ravello closed down for the evening.
*This is not the place stay if an active night life is necessary to your vacation, however Amalfi is less than a 20 minute taxi ride away with more late options.
Day Two
We spent a quiet morning walking around Ravello after a night of attempting to acclimate to the time zone by accidentally waking up every few hours. 😴 Got an espresso and a macchiato along the piazza and watched the village come alive with activity. Wondering through every alley, our senses were delightfully stimulated by colorful, handmade ceramics, markets spilling with fresh breads, produce, and the largest lemons I've ever encountered.🍋Sampling meats and cheeses at a cafe, I tried my first arancini ball and then we got two more because yum! Then made our way up to the most palatial and luxurious hotel, Caruso, to view the grounds while marveling at its history and grandeur.
Afternoon aperitivo called our name at Andrea’s uncle’s place again, where I had the most delicious espresso martini and they bring you generous snacks with your drink order. Quite possibly the best part of any day. Watching everyone gather on the piazza, so many locals meeting up to visit while children of every age kick around footballs. As the sun started to set, we headed for our reservation at Da Salvatore for more beautiful views and delicate seafood dishes. It was a perfect day.
Day trip to Positano
After watching Under the Tuscan Sun for the umpteenth time over the years, of course I'd always hoped to visit Positano! In order to get there, the quickest way is definitely by boat because the winding mountain roads and endless traffic would take forever and what a dream come true to see the Amalfi Coast from the sea?!!
We needed to get to Amalfi town to board a ferry and thought about riding the bus for 2 Euro but didn’t see any at the time so my husband found a taxi. Unfortunately, he thought the guy said 7 Euro but upon arrival in Amalfi he wanted 70€! For a five mile ride lol. Nice guy though, we just ran into a bit of a communication barrier there, live and learn. Definitely found the more affordable bus option on our way back later in the day. 😉
We located the ferry and purchased our tickets then waited with other like minded tourists in anticipation of the glorious views that followed. The comfortable half hour ride along the stunning coast was mesmerizing and my heart actually caught in my chest as we made the turn revealing the full view of Positano ahead. Postcard perfect, the striking pastel details of this cliffside cascading community becoming clearer as we neared the dock, it was amazing to behold!
After disembarking, we checked out the beach and boats then slowly made our way through the alleyways overflowing with local art, clothing, sandals, and random treasures. Every direction was full of color and vibrant with activity. Pretty much shoulder to shoulder with other tourists, we found ourselves kind of moving as a herd in an uphill direction weaving though tiny passages and peeking into boutiques. Until finally parting in all directions at a point where vehicles could access one of the only actual roads. Conveniently, this brought us right by the famous La Sponda Restaurant located at the perfect viewpoint. After treating ourselves to some sustenance and enjoying the scenery for a while, we agreed Positano would certainly be a nice place to return to, in the off season that is.
Despite the crowds, I could've blissfully gotten lost meandering the maze of pathways in this iconic village, but alas, it was time to catch our return ferry to Amalfi. Happily though, I was actually comforted and excited that we were headed back to the peaceful calm of magical Ravello. 😌
That afternoon, we arrived in the piazza just in time for aperitivo! The best time of day! By now, our favorite server, Daniella, greeted us with a knowing smile and we always seemed to end up at the same table resting against the building, where we could watch everything going on the piazza.
One of the Ravello Festival events was taking place this night and I hoped we could hear the orchestra playing from our little house. The Ravello Festival is an annual summer celebration of music and the arts that has been happening since 1953 and takes place at the Belvedere of Villa Rufolo.
We opted to try a pizza for take away from Ristorante Vittoria and brought our scrumptious, delicate pie back to the stunning view from our flat to enjoy a magical evening of sensory delight. Here's a video I took in attempt to capture this memory.
Last full day in Ravello
On our last full day, we hiked up to visit the famous gardens of Villa Cimbrone which dates back to the 11th century. En route from town, tucked away amongst lush lemon trees, you'll pass the more affordable but charmingly beautiful Hotel Villa Maria, whose grounds and Ristorante Villa Maria come highly recommended. A welcome stop for a cool beverage after climbing lots of steps. There was so much to see along the way, including a beautiful convent with a quiet garden and museum to peruse.
Once arriving at Villa Cimbrone, it was as if stepping back in time. A magnificently preserved estate brimming with secret tales of the ancient past and enduring sophisticated elegance. Perfectly manicured, timelessly alluring and romantic, this venue is the ultimate host of any type of event, I cannot fathom the cost of a wedding on these grounds. (We watched in awe as staff prepared for a ceremony that would occur later that afternoon. The opulent flower decorations alone were stunning and our timing was perfect because within the hour the property would be closing to the public for the private event. So we got to feel like fancy guests for a brief moment.)
As we approached The Terrace of Infinity, which certainly lives up to its name, known as one of, if not THE most spectacular viewpoints in the entire world, my breath was literally taken away. All I could do was stare in wonder at the overwhelming, unending panorama, lost in a contented daze of euphoria.
Coming down from, what seemed to me, quite possibly the top of the world, we resumed our aperitivo ritual on the piazza before getting ready for dinner. Just a few steps from our flat, we decided to see if we could get into Ristorante Sigilgaida at Hotel Rufolo for dinner.
Upon entering the hotel, it seemed that most of the guests staying there were attending the wedding we almost crashed so we had no trouble being seated. I tried to keep my composure as we were led to our table with an outstanding panoramic view! We could see the bell tower standing tall over the piazza with trees sprinkled in between the homes all the way down to the coastline. I fought back tears of joy as we watched the sunset and loved every bite of this chef's take on risotto. The perfect end to our time in Ravello.
Until Next Time, Ravello...
The next morning, we cleaned up and reluctantly packed so we could head to the train station in Naples. Andrea had previously procured us a ride and we met our new driver where we were dropped off the first day. With a final gaze at the ever changing shades of water that will hopefully be forever burned into memory, we climbed in ready to see what new adventures this day would bring. As we chatted with the driver, I realized it seemed like everyone we talked to was born and raised there, never leaving. And why would you ever want to leave paradise?
Certainly wasn't easy for me to board that train, but more experiences and new places beckoned as we continued our journey through Italy...
Oh before I forget, here are a few items that we didn't have time for but would love to try out upon our return: 😉✅
Rent a Vespa
Private boat tour
Day trip to Capri
Tour the Emerald Grotto
Hikes:
Path of the Gods
Lemon Walk
Valle delle Ferriere
Hope our guide on how to visit Ravello, Italy gave you some useful tidbits and as always, please reach out with any questions! I would love to hear about your adventures too!! 😎
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