By now, most everyone has heard of Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada for its majestic natural beauty but have you discovered Banff's neighbor, Jasper National Park? About 3.5 hours north of Banff, you can find a calmer, just as charming small town where you immediately feel like a local. One of the best parts about this trip is the drive from Banff to Jasper along the Icefields Parkway, arguably the most stunning highway in all of North America. With many photo ops and hikes along the way, you could easily spend the entire day on this journey being blown away by the breathtaking scenery.
If you'd like to read more details on our time in Banff National Park, here's the link- Summer Excursion to Banff
*Disclosure: The following post contains affiliate links with recommendations from our personal experiences and I can earn from qualifying purchases, at no cost to you.
Our trip began by driving from Calgary to Jasper National Park via the Icefields Parkway.
Give yourself minimally 5 hours and please don't worry about the length, it's very much worth your time! Although you could stop in Canmore, Banff, or Lake Louise if you don't feel like doing the whole drive in one day. Once you pass Lake Louise, Alberta's Highway 93 will enter a remote section of the park with miles of unceasing mountains, valleys and glaciers that will leave you gobsmacked.
A Canada National Parks Pass is required to enter Banff and Jasper National Parks. You can purchase passes online or from booths at the entrance to the parks as well as visitor's centers.
Cell service is nonexistent between Lake Louise and Jasper so make sure your maps are downloaded prior to starting, but know there are plenty of signs and you really won't loose your way.
Be cognizant of your gas tank and fuel up in Lake Louise because the ONLY gas station available along the way to Jasper is at Saskatchewan River Crossing Resort which is more expensive due to its isolated location.
Bring snacks or a picnic lunch for your journey because food options are very limited outside of towns.
Always remember to respect wildlife and keep your distance.
We arrived in Jasper on Friday afternoon and checked into the renowned Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge where we were surprised and delighted to be upgraded to a cabin by the lake. Immediately at ease and relaxed, we meandered around the resort to get the lay of the land and have a late lunch. The ambiance of this enchanting retreat harkens back to a century ago when the Canadian National Railway built the main lodge and acres of cabins which have stood the test of time, perfectly reflecting the natural surroundings. Massive amounts of stone and wood provided the framework of this opulent resort that certainly compliments the area's picturesque landscape. Complete with a golf course, spa, lake activities, hiking, and wildlife sightings, there are also multiple restaurant options to keep everyone happy. You could easily stay on this property and never have to leave during your entire vacation.
After exploring, we continued to enjoy the peaceful surroundings by sitting right outside our cabin with a glass of wine, while contentedly watching the afternoon sun change the reflection of colors on the water. Fellow happy hour enthusiasts lifted their glasses as they walked by and many actually went for a swim in what must have been a very chilly but refreshing dip in the lake. Later, we walked over to the lodge for our dinner reservations on the patio in the Great Hall. Couldn't have asked for a better time, the food, staff and atmosphere made for a lovely, relaxing evening all around.
Saturday morning, we strolled the winding pathways with our coffee as the morning mist lifted off Lac Beauvert and the lodge came to life with activity. After browsing through the golf pro shop and watching a few golfers tee off, reluctantly, we headed back to our cabin because it was time to get ready for checkout. Plus we planned to go for a hike at nearby Maligne Canyon. As we approached our cabin, a passing gentleman showed us pictures he had just taken of a grizzly bear with her cub only a few hundred yards away. On one hand I'm sorry to have missed that opportunity, but on the other, I'm not quite sure how my body would react if faced with the likes of a grizzly.
Only 12 minutes from Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, Maligne Canyon is a strikingly unique experience comprised of a 4.4 kilometer loop trail with 6 bridges crossing rushing waterfalls as they cut their way through the deep canyon below. The trail begins as an easy walk to the first 2 bridges but becomes more moderate with occasional steps as you continue on. Allow 3 hours to see the whole loop while pausing to take in the wondrous geological features. This was certainly one of the most remarkable and distinct hikes I've ever tried. Peering over the bridges into the vast caverns below was literally breathtaking and I made sure to hold tight to my phone when trying to capture videos.
*Apparently in the winter time, you can do Icewalk Tours down inside Maligne Canyon because the water freezes over. What an amazingly different perspective that would be!
Feeling a sense of accomplishment from our efforts and smiling at all we'd been fortunate to see already, we headed to downtown Jasper so we could check in to spend the remainder of the weekend at the Forest Park Hotel. In my search for Jasper hotels, we also considered staying at either The Crimson or Jasper Inn and Suites. The rest of the afternoon we walked around Jasper's many shops and restaurants, enjoying the local vibe and scenery. The bustling train station is right downtown running parallel to Connaught Drive and bringing visitors from all over just as it has for over a century. We loved the hip Jasper Brewing Company and a local favorite called Whistle Stop. For dinner, we walked to Evil Dave's Grill near our hotel and relished their unique take on local dishes with an international flair.
Sunday morning we got an early start to check out Valley of the Five Lakes (10 minutes from downtown Jasper). At around 4.5 kilometers, this is a fairly easy loop trail where we took our time enjoying the ever changing views. Each lake gets prettier than the last and the turquoise colors of the water are unbelievable.
Once we finished Valley of the Five Lakes, we drove another 20 minutes or so to take in Athabasca Falls (30 Minutes from Jasper), one of the most powerful waterfalls in the Canadian Rockies.
Just a short walk from the parking lot, you will encounter the granduer and intensity of this glacier fed waterfall. Feel the mist and hear the roaring water as you step through multiple viewpoints to take it all in. There are lots of signs with compelling facts to educate and enhance your experience. Definitely a sensory delight and a must see destination along the Icefields Parkway.
Worn out from our outdoor activities but full of smiles from all we’d seen, we opted to spend our last evening in Jasper at the hotel restaurant, Hearthstone Lounge, which was always super busy and for good reason. Delicious, cozy, and convenient!
The next morning, on our way to Banff, we made sure to stop at Peyto Lake, which is about 30 minutes from Lake Louise, just off the Icefields Parkway. The trek to Peyto was steeper than I anticipated given the reviews I had read about it being a short easy hike but I kept reminding myself, it's only a half mile. Paved and well kept, the air smelled like Christmas as we made our way through the lush forest. We were soon rewarded with a stunning view of the brilliant blue lake nestled between the imposing mountains. The observation deck is large and there are a couple other trails you can take to quieter viewpoints as this is a very popular stop so just wait your turn for the perfect photo.
You’ll notice from my photos that there was a haze in the air from the wildfires. During our time spent unveiling the wonders of Jasper National Park and hiking around the area, there was an occasional smell of smoke and we saw a few helicopters carrying water buckets but as we left Monday morning to continue our trip to Banff, the wildfire threat seemed contained. By Monday night however, two fires crept closer and at 10:30pm from the comfort of our room at Fox Hotel & Suites in Banff, we saw on the local news that Jasper was being evacuated. We had just left at 11am that morning (July 22, 2024).
It's astonishing the difference a few hours can make. Apparently the town of Jasper, with a population of five thousand, plus 20,000 tourists, waited in traffic overnight to flee. Tuesday and Wednesday the fires got worse. We kept searching the news for images of the town and found that nearly one-third of the properties were burned despite the hardworking efforts of first responders. The park remained closed until August 16th when residents and business owners were allowed back in. Slowly but surely more openings have taken place and rebuilding is ongoing. It will take a long while for the affected landscape to rejuvenate but it certainly will over time.
Please continue to send positive thoughts to everyone impacted by these fires including our animal friends. Jasper is building back even stronger and mostly reopened now with resilient work by the faithful folks who continue to call the area home. They will need all our help to get back to normal and resume the tourism levels they're used to and depend on.
The Jasper National Park Facebook page is a fabulous resource with updated information of the goings on and reopening efforts.
While waiting for our ride outside the hotel in Banff, we watched ashes settle on our luggage, hair, and clothing like tiny specks of snow, carried from three hours away. 💔
Feeling a surreal mix of disbelief, reverence for the complexities of nature, and hope for the future, we vowed to return to this extraordinary area of the world as it will remain incredible and sustained for generations to come.
